*This is the finished product after everything was said and done. Below I will have my detailed steps as to how I got here:)
Now no judging, from the picture below it looks like a perfect condition table and chairs that I should have left natural wood, but up close the chairs and sides of the table were in rough shape from being bumped and used throughout the years. (Don't mind my garage, it is always in a hot mess from my many projects)
With this table I wanted to preserve the AMAZING wood detail that was on the table top so I knew I didnt want to paint the entire table a solid color. I always try to preserve the craftmanship in the pieces I work on because I believe one day there will be little to no ornate details in the manufactured furniture.
Step 1: Stripping. When you need to strip off all epoxy, sealers or paint always where gloves and eye protection. I have burned chemically burned myself more than a few times with this stuff and it is not fun! To strip the epoxy off of the top of the table I used Klean Strip Premium stripper. When applying this it is important to always apply with the grain and apply the stripper in a thick amount. Thanks to my husband standing over my shoulder, he told me that it is best to allow atleast 15-20 minutes to allow the stripper to completely penetrate the epoxy so it is easier to scrape off. (I am so impatient when it comes to waiting, but I did learn that it is so worth the waiting!) I used a cheap natural bristle brush to apply the stripper and then a putty scrapper to remove the bubbled epoxy.
Step 2: Sanding. I started off with a 120 grit sand paper on my belt sander and then worked my way to a 220 grit to finish off the sanding process. Sanding will take alot of patience, but it will pay off in the end, I PROMISE! After you sand, it is important to clean up every little spec of dust off and around your area before proceeding to the next step. If you slack on cleaning up the dust it will cause particles to get into your primer, paint, and sealer and you will not have a smooth surface.
Step 3: Taping and painting. Because I was staining the top and painting the rest of the set, I needed to tap off all of the table top with precision. I used Frog Tape and a razor blade and i carefully went around the edges of the table with the razor blade so there were no overhanging pieces of tape.
After taping and using plastic to seal off all table top surfaces, it was time to paint!! YAY!!
Step 4: Priming and painting. I use B.I.N primer with the blue label on all of my projects. The stuff covers up anything and it is so affordable! After applying the primer, allow the primer to dry the proper amount of time before applying your paint. If you do not let the primer dry, you will get an almost crackle effect (most of the time) on your finished product because the primer did not have the time to harden like it should have.
I applied my paint with a spray gun, just for the convenience of time, but I love painting with a brush also so I always tell people it is whatever you want to do. Brushing paint on will leave you with some brush strokes (which I personally like because it gives your project personality), but spraying does leave a very smooth surface and saves you tons of time painting with the downfall of spending extra time cleaning your paint gun instead of just washing out your brush.
I used Behr Ultra Premium latex paint in satin for this project because it goes on so well! Everyone uses chalk paints (including me), but on this particular project I knew I wanted a different look then what chalk paint would give me. I applied the paint via spray gun to the table and all 8 chairs. *When painting chairs, it is so important to paint in uniformity. Chairs have about 50,000 different angles you need to get to and it is so important you dont miss any spots before sealing your piece. I always line my chairs up all the same way and spray each side on all chairs before rotating them to the next position. (Sorry I didnt get any pictures of my chairs lined up). Allow at least 12 hours to dry your latex paint before putting on your top coat. I waited 24 hours, but that was because my back hurt and I was tired:).
Step 5: Sealing your furniture and staining. I removed the plastic and tape from the top of the table and then applied my stain. I used Minwax Classic Grey because I wanted a more beachy look. I apply my stain with old socks, it is easy and I can just throw them away when everything is properly stained. Follow the directions on the back of the can. Minwax has specific directions and color exceptions and exemptions for application and it is always best to follow them.
After I stained my table I allowed the stain to dry and then it was time for my top coat! I use polycrylic (in the teal can) on all my pieces that are white, cream, beige, or any neutrals that could possibly show yellowing. I only use polyurethane on darker pieces or natural wood pieces because it will yellow over time. Again, follow the directions on the can. You can apply your sealant either by brush or spray gun (or if you are using polyurethane wipe on formula on a dark piece then just simply wipe on:)) Make sure to get the proper shine you want your finished project to be. I use polycrylic Semi Gloss simply because it was a dining table where it will have lots of greasy hands on it and I didnt want those to show.
*IMPORTANT TIP* Please, please, please do not skip your sealant coat. It is worth the extra money and application time I promise! Sealing your piece will add so much more protection and will prevent staining, discoloring, and help with the digs and dents probability.
