Wednesday, December 16, 2015

Jacobean style dining set
Available for custom refinishing within Utah with payment in advance.  


Goldilocks Dresser

Broyhill Goldilocks 9 drawer dresser
$475

She was a FUN project!! Loved working on this dresser.  Every detail pops out with the glazing and the hardware is just so fun and original!

Saturday, September 26, 2015

Ethan Allen French Country Curio.
-taping and more taping, but worth it in the end:)


Saturday, September 19, 2015

Em&Co Furniture Upcycling: Shabby Chic Cottage Hutch- Ethan Allen Tavern Pine...

Em&Co Furniture Upcycling: Shabby Chic Cottage Hutch- Ethan Allen Tavern Pine...: Shabby Chic Cottage Hutch- Ethan Allen Tavern Pine Collection 1978 -This piece was A PROJECT to say the least.  By far my biggest hutch I ...
Shabby Chic Cottage Hutch- Ethan Allen Tavern Pine Collection 1978

-This piece was A PROJECT to say the least.  By far my biggest hutch I have taken on, but it totally was worth the effort! It is September, so I was in the spirit to paint the hutch back a rusty orange color, but with the market I decided on a warm gray with a cream body.

*Note to any fellow reclaimologists... Before you paint a piece that you are going to put on the market, always consider what the trending colors are.  This will pay off every time.  Sometimes it is good to take risks, but on pieces so large it is best to stick to what you know will sell:)

Here.She.Is.


I left the wood its natural color and then sealed with Minwax Polycrylic Semi Gloss.  The grain and knots in this wood was GORGEOUS so I couldnt resist but leave it in its raw state. 








Saturday, September 12, 2015

Farmhouse Hutch (3) Before and Afters

-I have a slight obsession with farmhouse anything, but hutches are my crutch;) I LOVE refinishing these types of hutches because they have so much personality and character to add to any style of home.

Back To School Farmhouse Hutch


Summertime Farmhouse Hutch
(The Back To School Hutch's evil twin without the evil part)


Black and White Farmhouse Hutch
*Custom Order*



Sunday, July 26, 2015

Johnson and Carper 9 drawer dresser project

Before

After

This piece was painted using Fairy Chalk Mother's Chalky paint in the color Arsenic and then glazed in a custom mix of ebony and Annie Sloan soft wax.
Sold



Shab to Chic Farmhouse Dining Set

This poor dining set needed some major TLC on the top. I believe that if there is gorgeous wood designs on a dining table top then it should not be covered up in layered of bumpy, poorly applied latex paint.  To each their own, but this table deserved to have the woodwork shown because it was FABULOUS!

After spending 8 hours with Klean-Strip paint stripper and my handy dandy hand scraper, this is the result.  I was so happy to find that under the black and so very thick latex paint, I found this gorgeous wood design! 
After I took this picture I then proceeded to sand this puppy down to the naked wood.  With the help of my husband, it "only" took us 9 hours to get it to a staining state.  

We decided to use Minwax's Classic Gray stain because it has such a pleasant hue without bringing out any oranges or pinks in the wood.  
Lastly, we sealed the tabletop with water based Minwax Polycrylic in semi-gloss.  For a tabletop, I would suggest applying at least 4 coats.  

The finished result! I was so happy to see my client's face when she came to pick up this table after finding it on my post to purchase.  





Furniture Eye Candy

Furniture Eye Candy
Enjoy;)



















Sunday, March 29, 2015

Thomasville 8 person dining set

I found this dining set off of our local classifieds ad website and got it for $100!  I knew I had hit the jack pot on this one and couldnt wait to get it finished and sold to someone.  Well.... I started having attachment issues with this one and in the end, it is now sitting in my dining room in my house and will stay there FOREVER;)  
*This is the finished product after everything was said and done.  Below I will have my detailed steps as to how I got here:)



Now no judging, from the picture below it looks like a perfect condition table and chairs that I should have left natural wood, but up close the chairs and sides of the table were in rough shape from being bumped and used throughout the years.  (Don't mind my garage, it is always in a hot mess from my many projects)
With this table I wanted to preserve the AMAZING wood detail that was on the table top so I knew I didnt want to paint the entire table a solid color.  I always try to preserve the craftmanship in the pieces I work on because I believe one day there will be little to no ornate details in the manufactured furniture.  
Step 1:  Stripping.  When you need to strip off all epoxy, sealers or paint always where gloves and eye protection.  I have burned chemically burned myself more than a few times with this stuff and it is not fun!  To strip the epoxy off of the top of the table I used Klean Strip Premium stripper.  When applying this it is important to always apply with the grain and apply the stripper in a thick amount.  Thanks to my husband standing over my shoulder, he told me that it is best to allow atleast 15-20 minutes to allow the stripper to completely penetrate the epoxy so it is easier to scrape off.  (I am so impatient when it comes to waiting, but I did learn that it is so worth the waiting!)  I used a cheap natural bristle brush to apply the stripper and then a putty scrapper to remove the bubbled epoxy.  

Step 2:  Sanding.  I started off with a 120 grit sand paper on my belt sander and then worked my way to a 220 grit to finish off the sanding process. Sanding will take alot of patience, but it will pay off in the end, I PROMISE! After you sand, it is important to clean up every little spec of dust off and around your area before proceeding to the next step.  If you slack on cleaning up the dust it will cause particles to get into your primer, paint, and sealer and you will not have a smooth surface.  

Step 3:  Taping and painting.  Because I was staining the top and painting the rest of the set, I needed to tap off all of the table top with precision.  I used Frog Tape and a razor blade and i carefully went around the edges of the table with the razor blade so there were no overhanging pieces of tape.


After taping and using plastic to seal off all table top surfaces, it was time to paint!! YAY!!

Step 4:  Priming and painting.  I use B.I.N primer with the blue label on all of my projects.  The stuff covers up anything and it is so affordable!  After applying the primer, allow the primer to dry the proper amount of time before applying your paint.  If you do not let the primer dry, you will get an almost crackle effect (most of the time) on your finished product because the primer did not have the time to harden like it should have.
  I applied my paint with a spray gun, just for the convenience of time, but I love painting with a brush also so I always tell people it is whatever you want to do.  Brushing paint on will leave you with some brush strokes (which I personally like because it gives your project personality), but spraying does leave a very smooth surface and saves you tons of time painting with the downfall of spending extra time cleaning your paint gun instead of just washing out your brush.
 I used Behr Ultra Premium latex paint in satin for this project because it goes on so well!  Everyone uses chalk paints (including me), but on this particular project I knew I wanted a different look then what chalk paint would give me.  I applied the paint via spray gun to the table and all 8 chairs.  *When painting chairs, it is so important to paint in uniformity.  Chairs have about 50,000 different angles you need to get to and it is so important you dont miss any spots before sealing your piece.  I always line my chairs up all the same way and spray each side on all chairs before rotating them to the next position.  (Sorry I didnt get any pictures of my chairs lined up).  Allow at least 12 hours to dry your latex paint before putting on your top coat.  I waited 24 hours, but that was because my back hurt and I was tired:).  

Step 5:  Sealing your furniture and staining.  I removed the plastic and tape from the top of the table and then applied my stain.  I used Minwax Classic Grey because I wanted a more beachy look.  I apply my stain with old socks, it is easy and I can just throw them away when everything is properly stained.  Follow the directions on the back of the can.  Minwax has specific directions and color exceptions and exemptions for application and it is always best to follow them. 
 After I stained my table I allowed the stain to dry and then it was time for my top coat!  I use polycrylic (in the teal can)  on all my pieces that are white, cream, beige, or any neutrals that could possibly show yellowing.  I only use polyurethane on darker pieces or natural wood pieces because it will yellow over time.  Again, follow the directions on the can.  You can apply your sealant either by brush or spray gun (or if you are using polyurethane wipe on formula on a dark piece then just simply wipe on:))  Make sure to get the proper shine you want your finished project to be.  I use polycrylic Semi Gloss simply because it was a dining table where it will have lots of greasy hands on it and I didnt want those to show.  
*IMPORTANT TIP* Please, please, please do not skip your sealant coat.  It is worth the extra money and application time I promise!  Sealing your piece will add so much more protection and will prevent staining, discoloring, and help with the digs and dents probability.  



Monday, March 2, 2015

French Provincial

I have a bit of an obsession with French Provincial pieces of furniture.... Okay, maybe its a BIG obsession.  It will be a sad day in the world when there are no more French pieces for me to scoop up and restore.  I posted in the post before this about the tiffany blue 9 drawer french provincial dresser I had up cycled, but I didn't stop there and since then, I have found and restored plenty more french pieces to satisfy anyone's interests for ideas.

Little miss french piggy went to the market:)

I wish I had the before picture of this dresser and the project pictures, but I was so preoccupied with restoring it that I didn't even think about documenting the restoration until I was putting the final handle on the dresser!  

This dresser started out with being a pee yellow color which was anything but appealing along with missing handles.  I picked it up for $100 at a local college student housing complex.  Once I got it home I began with a quick sanding with 220 grit, a wipe down with denatured alcohol, which works amazingly well to get all of the oils and excess gunk off of the piece.  I then went to our local True Value and picked up B-I-N Primer and Sealer in the spray can.  This was the first time I had used B-I-N and I could not believe how well the primer covered up in 1 coat!  I would recommend this stuff to anyone who is unsure what primer to use to guarantee a good base for your paint color.  The paint I used was Behr Ultra Premium in an eggshell sheen.  I always always use a polyurethane top coat or polycrylic top coat on all of my pieces for protection.  

**This is a personal preference (but highly supported by other painters).  
-Always use polycrylic clear coat on light colored furniture such as whites, creams, or anything that can show a yellow tint when you dont want it to.  The polycrylic will not yellow on your furniture after it is applied.  Polycrylic is also water-based so it is very easy to clean out your paint brush after applying it. 
-Polyurethane will yellow white and cream.  I only use polyurethane when I am spraying colored, moderate to dark pieces of furniture.  

I apply either/or brushed on or spray can clear coats.  I have had equal success with both.      

Locating a handle to replace the missing one was a cake walk.  I got online to etsy and found a seller out of Philadelphia who carried reproduced ones.  I only paid $6 for the replacement handle and it looked IDENTICAL to my other 8.  
*When spray painting handles*
Always clean handles with hot water and dish soap before coating them with any paint to guarantee a quality job.  I will always primer the handles with B-I-N primer and then apply a durable spray paint color over the primer.  I then will finish off the handle with a clear coat spray finish.  

I would love your opinions on your experiences with different primers/sealers.  Feel free to comment with anything you want to add to my blog posts.  I am always looking to learn more from the good and bad experiences of others.